Makeup and Glow

It’s finally arrived! Weighing only 400 grams (700 grams with battery attached) with size of L10 x W5 x H10.5 cm. This beautiful white compact battery operated airbrush system comes complete with an SP35 airbrush.Compatible with AC voltage (100 - 240 V) makes this system perfect for travel. The DesignerPro Airbrush System be used with battery for over an hour non-stop with consecutive power, or ulimited when plugged in to mains power. This unit has a preset maximum pressure of 28 PSI and will do all your beauty needs and be suitable for all airbrushing fluids. $330 INCLUDING SHIPPING *No further discounts apply*

(Source: makeupandglow.com.au)

Though it is still a relatively new application for many makeup artists and their clients, airbrush makeup has been around for a very long time  - since 1925 actually.  I personally and professionally adore the results of airbrushing but I understand you might hear confusing and conflicting information so I’ll do my best to clear this up!

Do I have to airbrush?

Of course not.  Only you yourself will know when/if the time is right to move onto using this method as you will have the request/demand for it. There are photographers/brides/TV stations/film sets that do prefer this method but I’m a believer of if it’s not broke then don’t fix it. If your way is working well for you and you’re not losing any jobs over it then continue how you’re currently working without any pressure.  I personally decided to start airbrushing when I realised I was being asked more and more if I used this method and as I didn’t want to limit myself I decided to pick it up. Even though I was confident in the results of my hand applied application I did have those wishing to employ my services that preferred the look of airbrushing in both person and on camera. I continued on using both hand applied and airbrushing methods though depending on the look I was trying to achieve so I never became exclusive with one over the other.

Can I use my regular hand applied foundation through the airbrush?

Whilst really any foundation could be put through an airbrush it is always best to use a product specifically made for this purpose and one that is airbrush ready. This means you have a pre-mixed formula and should not have to add any mixing fluids to dilute it in order for it to be thin enough to pass through the airbrush without clogging.  Foundations designed to be applied by hand are often too thick to be airbrush ready and therefore people dilute with water, alcohol or silicone, however a diluted hand applied formula doesn’t always work as well this way. Airbrush foundations will always have the correct viscosity and pigment ratio to be applied correctly, where as a watered down, hand applied foundation can look exactly that, watered down, and not working as it was designed to.  You may need more layers sprayed to get the desired coverage which would result in a heavy handed look.  Often a company will promote a hand applied foundation that is able to run through an airbrush simply because they don’t have an airbrush ready formula. Some airbrush foundations do have the ability to be slightly diluted, and this is often seen with silicone based airbrush foundations that do tend to be thicker than their water/alcohol base counterparts.  When diluting these with a silicone liquid it’s not a half and half ratio but rather a couple of drops to ensure the ease of the airbrush flow, especially if your airbrush has a small needle size or your compressor isn’t the most powerful.

Why does it give me a heavy/wet/thick appearance? 

When done correctly, this doesn’t occur, the opposite is true and you should be using far less foundation as it is highly concentrated and layers down with a fine spray. Airbrushing should look even and replicate great skin.  If it’s too heavy then remember it is better to lightly layer the product if needed rather than go in with one thick spray.  Skin preparation is very important to ensure you have concealed trouble spots and then do a light layer. Slowly build up only where you need.  If it looks wet then your PSI level is too high, and/or you’re too close to the face.  Also check your needle as this may be pulled back and opening the needle hole to give too much of a heavy spray.  Always test your product on a tissue/paper towel prior to the application to ensure you have the correct flow.

Can I airbrush mature skin? 

Absolutely! I often find this gives the best results.  People are sometimes scared of encountering wrinkles on the face as the airbrush layers the product on to the skin, rather than pushing it between any deep lines and therefore it can age the client further.  The way around this is to ensure you have concealed the area first and lightly powder around the eyes with a product that does not cake up and this will stop the concealer from travelling. Then when you airbrush the rest of the face you can, ever so lightly, either airbrush over this area or around it.

Can I airbrush all year round, or will different seasons affect it? 

Airbrushing works well in all seasons. Using a budge/sweat proof formula in summer works an absolute treat and can be the best product to fight against the humidity. Perfect for the Australian climate.  Use the airbrush foundation over an anti-shine primer in conjunction with a setting spray and blotting papers will also ensure the longevity.

Do I clean the airbrush after each client?

This is unnecessary as it is only between jobs.  When changing clients and possibly colour shades just spray the excess product left in your airbrush into a tissue or cleaning pot. Add the correct shade and test into your tissue and you’ll see the new colour start to spray through.  If you are leaving it a long time between clients then you can feel free to add a few drops of airbrush cleaner into the airbrush and let it rest, and spray this out when it’s time for the new client. This will ensure the product doesn’t harden if it’s not in use for some time.

Do I need to fully dismantle my airbrush between jobs? 

No, again this isn’t necessary. Run the cleaner through the gun at a higher PSI so it’s really blows out hard and also do a back bubble.  ’Back bubbling’ is when you press a tissue over the end of your airbrush and press the trigger so that the contents bubbles up inside the cup of your airbrush. This will loosen any product and then again spray it all out.  Repeat as necessary.  Leave the full dismantle for maybe every few months if you’re using it regularly.

What brands can I use through my airbrush?

Any airbrush designed products can be put through the airbrush.  You can also use mixing mediums which will be a liquid that enables you to mix pigments and loose shadows with it to turn the dry product into a liquid to spray through the airbrush. Do not believe anyone telling you that only ‘x’ particular brand will work through the gun. The gun is metal and you can run anything thin enough through it, regardless of the brand.

My gun is clogging and spitting?

It doesn’t take much for a tiny bit of dried makeup to affect the spray so ensure it is totally clean.  Over time regular use of the airbrush can also mean parts can wear down, or if you have dropped your airbrush the needle can get bent. Replacement parts are available.  It’s also advisable to not switch between different bases - meaning using the same gun for different products like either water, silicone or alcohol.  Water and silicone, and silcone and alcohol don’t like each other - there will be clogging issues and inevitable hassles. Invest in a second airbrush if you wish to use more than one base.  Make sure you are using the correct airbrush cleaner also. Water needs water to clean it, silicone needs a silicone cleaner, and alcohol needs alcohol. Otherwise a product called Nurturing Force Airbrush Cleaner will actually clean out all three bases.

What type of airbrush and compressor do I need?

This will depend on the type of work you do. If it’s straight beauty work then an airbrush with a top feed (the cup is on the top of the brush) and preferably a dual action. A dual action airbrush allows much better control than just spraying at one flow. A single action airbrush only requires the user to press down the trigger for the makeup to come out. With a dual action you press down to release only air and then the second action (which gives the name ‘dual action’) is slowly pulling back the trigger to release the makeup. Pull back only slightly for a soft flow, and pull back fully to get a full flow of product.  You’ll want to adjust the flow for smaller areas on the face (i.e. going softer around the curves of the nose).  A needle size of a .3mm to .5mm is recommended, and a WORKING PSI of around 20 - 25. PSI refers to Pressure per Square Inch. What I mean by  ’working’ PSI is the level of the gauge when your airbrush is in use.  Often a compressor will list a PSI level but that may not be for when it is in use, so ensure it will be powerful enough for your needs. Water base airbrush foundations need around 8 - 12 PSI, where as often a silicone base is thicker and will need a higher PSI level. If you a mostly a mobile artist working on location you will ideally have a compact compressor, either battery or mains operated for easy transport.  If you work in a salon and will be using the airbrush regularly through the day then a compressor powerful enough that it does not overheat and runs off mains power (plugs into the wall).  If you do body painting and/or tanning again you’ll need a compressor with a higher PSI, and a bottom feed airbrush. A bottom feed means a bottle or jar will attach under the airbrush and the gun sucks the liquid up and is ideal for larger areas over the body.

I like to do my clients’ eyes first and clean up the fall out before doing foundation. Can I do this with airbrushing?

Yes you can. Just fold a tissue and hold this over the eye to prevent any over spray.  

Does airbrush makeup last longer than hand applied?

When done correctly, yes it can. Generally it’s about the application. With the right products hand applied can also last a very long time so it’s all about prepping the skin, concealing and controlling your airbrushed application that are right for your client.

A TIP! If you have purchased a starter pack of foundations then I encourage you to reach for the darkest shades if you don’t use these often, or if your clients have mainly dark skin then reach for the lightest, and practice with these so that you can really see your application. When you have a great match to the skin/foundation can make it difficult to see where you’re laying down the foundation, but this way you will see any patches and identify any weakness to not getting an even coverage.

My client has very poor skin so will airbrushing fix this?

Clients often literally confuse airbrushing for what is done in photo shop.  Too many artists and brands have built up this method or it’s airbrushing products to have the ability to erase everything and transform the face into absolute perfection.  Yes it will successfully cover colour issues such as pigmentation, rosasia, birth marks, tattoos and acne, leaving a beautiful porcelain look, but it can not do anything about texture. If they had a mole, raised pimple, or deep lines then they will still be there afterwards. Whilst airbrushing will, of course, improve the appearance of the skin and soften these imperfections please do not promise your client the earth as they will be sorely disappointed. Be realistic. As they say ‘It’s a brush not a wand!’

What kind of airbrushing foundation should I choose?

This is a personal choice and whether you or your client prefers a matte or dewy finish. Generally speaking, water base foundations appear more matte than silicone and cleans very easily out of the airbrush whilst silicone bases are naturally water/sweat resistant, fills in pores, is kinder to creases around the eye area and leaves a glowing finish. Alcohol bases are used on the body but too highly irritating for the face.  Always check if your client has any allergies and make sure you have an alternative for them rather than relying on one foundation base for everyone.

Do I need to use a primer under airbrushing, and if so which kind?

The fine spray of airbrushing should have something to ‘grab’ to as this will enable the foundation to hold well. A primer that isn’t slippery is preferred.  Some silicone gel primers give too much slip and the product will tend to separate on top of this.  Again something that is recommended for use under airbrushing is your best bet.

I’m new to doing makeup so if I buy airbrush equipment will it make me a better artist? 

No it won’t.  The airbrush is another tool just like a sponge or brush. If you have trouble colour matching or blending makeup by hand then you will do with the airbrush.  It will take time to perfect airbrushing and be familiar with what products you like and the colour range so don’t rush it.

How soon can I start charging for airbrushing?

Like the question above, it is just another tool.  It will not transform your artistic ability immediately.  You need to become very comfortable and confident in using your equipment and products and this will vary from person to person.  Practice, practice, practice! And then when you feel you have the look down pat then start saying you do airbrushing. Doing this too soon can compromise your own reputation, the clients experience of it, and what the benefits of what airbrushing is. Once you’ve got the hang of it you’ll soon see the benefits to it. Its quick, hygienic, long lasting and gives a beautiful polished yet natural finish.

A TIP!  When starting out use the airbrush in conjunction with your current method.  Just because you airbrush foundation does not mean you also have to airbrush the contour, blush, highlight, liner and shadow. Learning the basics of airbrushing foundation application is a lot quicker to start with and you can concentrate on perfecting this first before moving on to the control required for the rest.  Generally when you first get your airbrush equipment you’ll need to know how to use it, and how to apply the product. The rest is up to you to practice and become familiar with your equipment and products. Too many artists will do some quick training and go do a wedding the next weekend, without taking the time to sufficiently practice, and wonder why they may not have achieved optimum results or figured out how to trouble shoot a problem if they encounter one.  If you’re having trouble I try to advise a little bit of the ‘cut down and quit method’.  When I was learning I would continue to do some clients with hand applied foundation very thinly and then lightly finish with airbrush. If you use this method then ensure you test that both your hand applied foundation and airbrush foundation is compatible and they do not ‘reject’ each other and start to separate.  This built my confidence and technique and gradually I cut down my hand applied application. I wasn’t ‘fooling’ my client by passing this method off, but rather was honest in me learning the technique and asked if they wouldn’t mind if I finished off with airbrushing. No one ever had a problem and loved the results so it was a win win all round. It wasn’t long before I dropped the hand applied though continued to conceal by hand before picking up the gun.

Happy airbrushing!